Food Experiences in Negotino

In Negotino, where I am staying with my host family, I am enjoying on a daily basis the abundance of fresh (and I mean just picked from the garden fresh) fruits and vegetables. The tomatoes, which I have never eaten raw in my life, are tender and juicy. The apples, grapes, kiwi, pomegranates, leeks, cabbages, peppers, eggplants, and cucumbers can be purchased daily from any of the many produce stands in the town and village. The open market on Tuesdays and Thursdays brings in purveyors from the surrounding villages as well as the backyard growers of vegetables and fruits.

My host family serves me traditional Macedonian meals three times a day. Breakfast, poyadok, could consist of Turkish coffee, white cheese that is flakey similar to feta, sometimes eggs, hardboiled or fried, bread, 3.2% milk (into which Macedonians add sugar), drinkable yogurt, marmalade, chocolate spread similar to peanut butter, thick bread soaked in eggs (French Toast without syrup)) and fried in oil, byrek (flakey pastry filled with cheese), tea, sliced meats and meat spreads similar to liverwurst. Although available, cold cereals are not eaten by my host family. There is no Macedonian word for cereal. They use the word “corn flakes” to describe any corn, wheat or rice breakfast product. They have never had oatmeal, pancake syrup, or peanut butter. It’s not available.

Lunch (rycheck) which is served at three o’clock in the afternoon and is the main meal of the day, consists of soup, bread, a meat dish of either chicken, pork or beef, a vegetable dish of peppers or tomatoes, mashed potatoes or rice, wine or rakija and sometimes a sweet for dessert. My family is not big on sweets. They always have fresh fruits available.

Supper (vechera) is served at 8PM as we sit in the living room watching the news or some other show (Serbian Survivor for example). It is a light meal, usually consisting of food leftover from lunch. You might have cheese, always have bread, milk or wine, fresh tomatoes or cucumber, sliced meats and sometimes a sweet purchase at the store.

Those who aren’t having their meals prepared for them can find most of the ingredients for preparing their meals in Negotino. Butcher shops, fruit and vegetable stands, pastry shops and small convience stores are in the downtown area. There is one supermarket that has a decent inventory of instant soups, pastas, snacks and wines. Maybe it’s because we are in the wine growing area of the country, but you can purchase a very good bottle of locally produced wine for 150 denari ($3.00). Milk is sold in one liter sealed boxes and is sold off the shelf. It must be refrigerated after opening and tastes fine.

I have not dined out yet, but I understand from listening to current Volunteers that every town has a restaurant or two that offers a good dining experience. In Negotino, there are many food stands where you can purchase a “hamburger”, byrek, or sandwich (tost).

All said and done, you cannot go hungry in Macedonia. On December 13th, when we head out to be on our own, our cooking skills will truly be tested. The Peace Corps staff said that many trainees put on 20 pounds during their stay with their host family but they lose it all and more living on their own and having to cook their own meals. They do provide us with a Macedonian cookbook to help get us started. thank goodness for that.