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Saturday, December 6, 2008

Some of the Homes I've Visited

Please be mindful that my comments in this session are based on my observations of only a dozen or so homes and the discussions I’ve had with other Trainees and in no way is intended to infer (or is it imply?) that every home in Macedonia is the same. As in most countries, the size of the home is somewhat dependent on the economic status of the family. In the villages, many of the families have lived in the same homes for generations if not centuries. One person I met in Skopje has lived in the same apartment for 61 years. He raised a family in it and now enjoys his retirement in it.

As the old expression goes, “you can’t judge a book by its cover”, so too you can’t judge a home by its exterior. As you travel through Macedonia, you will notice that many of the homes are not quite finished. The outside walls tiles are exposed, giving the home by American standards, the appearance of neglect. This is of course not the case. It is very expensive to have the outside walls stucco (-ed), so families put off having it done until they are able to afford it. This may be years or maybe never. Not having the job done does not affect the stability of the house. Once completed though, the home takes on a majestic appearance.

Cement, stone, iron, ceramic tile, and marble are the construction materials of choice. Structures are rock solid and that is probably why I haven’t seen too many smoke detectors and why the schools I’ve been in don’t practice fire drills.

The interior of the homes that I have visited look nothing like the exteriors of the unfinished homes. The walls are stucco (-ed) and painted in light colors. There are wall hangings, curtains and brightly colored carpets throughout. They have beautiful wood and tiled floors. The living room has comfortable sofas and armchairs, along with the always-on TV and the wood stove. The interiors of the homes are very inviting and comfortable.

Most homes in Negotino do not have central heating. There is no natural gas available and limited use of heating oil, so homes are heated by wood burning stoves and electric space heaters. My host family has a portable (meaning they disassemble it in the warmer seasons and store it in the garage) living room stove that keeps the place toasty.

The kitchens have all the appliances that you would find in most American kitchens, perhaps a little smaller and in most cases, without the stainless steel , the automatic ice maker, and the microwave. My host family, in addition to the electric stove, also has a large wood burning stove/oven. They use it in the colder months because it is multi-functional. They use it to boil and bake while at the same time it helps to heat the rest of the common living areas and dries recently washed laundry. I plan on installing one when I return to the U.S. but will have to put on an addition to the kitchen in order to accommodate it. There is a small electric water heater above the sink that provides hot water for the kitchen sink.

My host family has two beautifully tiled bathrooms. The larger one has a large tub and hand-held showerhead. To take a shower, you stand in the tub without curtains and using the hand held spray, you wash and rinse. The drain on the tiled floor and the tiled walls willingly accept the overspray. The tub is quite large, climbing in and out takes practice and you will need a lifeguard if you ever filled it to take a bath. The tub is used to do laundry if you don’t have a washing machine. I understand most families in Macedonia have washing machines but dryers are very rare due to the high cost of electricity. I still believe that opening a Laundromat, with extra dryers, in one of the larger communities could be a successful enterprise despite the fact that every Macedonian I talked to said they wouldn’t use one.

One factor that takes some getting used to in the cold weather is the that bathrooms are not heated. The bathroom window is kept open even in freezing temperatures. There is only a cold water faucet. I have found out that shaving cream has a totally different texture when used at 35 degrees and that I can forego that first cup of coffee to wake me up after splashing my face with icy water. There may be an electric heater high on the wall in the bathroom with the shower, but by the time it kicks in, you’re heading out to a warmer location (warmer being a relative term). There is a wall-mounted electric boiler outside of the bathroom that provides hot water to the tub and washing machine as long as you give it two hours to heat the water.

During the colder months, families retreat to the living room area which is warmed by the wood burning stove and in some cases by an electric space heater. The kitchen wood stove also puts out a lot of warmth so it is a great place to hang out. All the rooms have thick wooden doors that can be closed to conserve the heat while the hallways, the bathroom (s) and the bedrooms are usually unheated.

It is the custom in Macedonia for individuals to take off their street shoes when they enter a home. The floors remain in pristine condition, not having to undergo attacks from the dirt and grime that accumulates on the bottom of shoes.

Macedonians have access to cable TV, fast internet, and cell phone technology and the competition for customers by the various providers is as competitive as it is back in the States (since I’ve been in Macedonia, I love saying “back in the States” – it makes me feel as though I’m in some WWII movie). Advertising such services blankets the media.

Anyway, on the 13th of December, I will be moving to the town on Probistip. I will no longer be living in the beautiful and comfy home of my host family but I will be living in an apartment, initially constructed to house the miners and their families. Reports on apartment living will follow.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hey Michael,
You are becoming quite a writer. Maybe you and Lee can combine your writing talents and your pictures to make a coffee table or travel book about Macedonia! It sounds like sure a fascinating experience!

I thought you were there for one year. Is it really two? Wow, you are really brave to leave Lee and the boys for that long!

Good luck on your teaching experience. I am looking forward to hearing more. Take care of yourself.
Love,
Carmella
ps. Have you heard from Richie? maybe you can get together. I think he is there until June, 2009

Mike Erhartic RPCV said...

Hey Carmella,
Thanks for your compliment. Two years will go real fast and will give more people a chance to visit and take advantage of the inexpensive cost of touring the country and having a free place to stay.

As much as I'd like to, and even though he is a friend from the past, the Peace Corps understandably wants us to refrain from communicating with any military or other agency personnel that may give the perception that we may be involved with that agency. Being that he is a Major General, I really can't talk to him while he is playing such a key role in the area. It could betray the trust that the Peace Corps works so hard to maintain.

Anyway,good health and I hope all is going well in Colorado. By the way there are five volunteers from Colorado in our 34 member group. Take care. Maikl.