Now that I have my computer back, things have returned to normal. Without my computer I had to actually read a book and watch B-movies from the 70’s and 80’s. I never knew there were so many bad movies out there. I did get a lot of language studying in and I organized some of the stuff I had been putting off. I put everything in the kitchen in alphabetical order. For example, when you open the utensil drawer, you will notice from left to right, forks, knifes, and then spoons. The dishes and glasses are arranged – coffee cups, dinner plates, juice glasses, large bowls, sandwich plates, saucers, soup bowls, tall glasses, and tea cups. I could have arranged them - bowls, large; bowls, soup; cups, coffee; cups, tea; glasses, juice; glasses, tall; plates, dinner; and plates, sandwich – but I think that I made the right decision by employing the former technique. I would love to hear others' feedback on this issue. Anyway having my computer back has rescued me from having to make such frivolous, yet rewarding decisions.
The weather in this part of the country hits the mid-90’s on some days but there is little humidity so I am quite comfortable. Laundry hung on the line will actually dry completely in two hours. There always seems to be a breeze, so my stan (apartment), equipped with a Peace Corps issued fan, remains tolerable for me. The traditional Macedonian, however, believes that a breeze (promaja) will cause one to become sick with a headache, shoulder problem or worse. Accordingly, few families have fans and few of the apartment dwellers open their windows. If you ever come to Probitsip, you can identify my apartment from the street, because it is the only one in the neighborhood with all the windows open. One of my students mentioned that the only time his mother opens the windows is when she is cleaning.
This fear of a breeze (promaja) also makes bus travel somewhat uncomfortable because regardless of the temperature, the windows on the bus that can be opened, will not be opened. In many cases the buses lack air-conditioning. The high outdoor temperatures combined with the body temperatures of the passengers along with the perfumes, deodorants, food smells and body odors make bus travel a truly sensory experience. I have traveled on several buses this summer that were air-conditioned. The driver would have to turn it off when traveling uphill but the ride was pleasantly and unexpectedly comfortable.
During these summer months it’s kind of weird to go outside and not see many people until five or six in the evening. Those residents who don’t work seem to sleep in, especially the teenagers, until after 12PM. Then it’s "too hot" to be outside and lunch is at 3’ish after which a nap is in order because of the big mid-day meal and heat of the afternoon. Around 5’ish the residents are out on the streets and this goes on until after midnight. I have yet to adjust to this schedule and am usually in bed by 11PM.
A couple of weeks ago I was at the Wednesday market walking amongst the crowd and surveying the stalls for my week’s supply of fresh produce. Suddenly a microphone was thrust in front of my face by a reporter for the local TV station. Accompanying her was a cameraman and I then I realized I was a participant in a man-on-the- street interview. The only problem was that I could only understand 7 out of the 10 words of the question I was being asked. So I gave my usual, “I am from America and I am learning Macedonian. I know a little of your language.” This comment always encourages a Macedonian to speak faster and in longer sentences and I find myself guessing about what they are talking about, not understanding 30-50% of the words. So when I was asked the question of the day, I heard the words for weather, sun, rain, hot, and like but really didn’t know what she was asking. So hoping I was in the ballpark, I answered, “I like the weather when it’s sunny and hot but I also like the rain.” She gave me a quizzical look, thanked me and proceeded on to find another interviewee. I figured the reporter could get a better response from any other living person in Probistip. The next day Jasmina, my tutor and friend, casually informed me that, “Oh, we saw you on TV last night. You spoke very well!” Go figure.
Melons are in season right now and almost everywhere I go I will notice “melon vendors” plying their fruits. They have a melon here that looks somewhat like a cantaloupe and it’s called a “bocton”(pronounced boston). So for the last week or so, at the market and on the street corners, I hear the name of the capital city of Massachusetts, my home state, being proclaimed throughout the Republic “bocton, bocton, imam bocton tuka”(get your melons here).
So now that school is out until September (teachers report back on the 18th of August), what goes on in the life of a Peace Corps Volunteer in Macedonia? Tune in next time and I’ll fill you in. I’ve got a lot to do right now. (FYI: those of you who get this posting directly as e-mail may be missing my wonderful captioned photos that you can access at Picasa from my blog)
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